mardi, juin 28, 2005

Aix-en-Provence

Five days in Aix, paid for by Columbia University. Not bad. My friends Raf, Paulina and Catherine are staying with me in a "maison indépendante" with a pool and a beautiful terrace on which we eat dinner while admiring the view of the city and Mont Saint-Victoire (the mountain Cézanne has so many times depicted). The only thing is that it's REALLY hot. So that's why I've been getting up at 7 am to sit out on the terrace with my bowl of tea, tartines, fruit and bifidus yogurt for breakfast. Raf tried it at 9 and it was simply too hot.

Yesterday we all went down to Cassis, a Mediterranean beach town between Marseille and Toulon. The coastline there is famous for the "calanques", which are basically fjords (except these were carved out by the water from the melting glaciers rather than the glaciers themselves). After hiking to one of the calanques near Cassis we then had a picnic, swam and sunbathed. It was lovely.

But the worst is this woman who planned the trip. I'm now convinced she's either insane or criminally incompetent (I'm not even sure she's a professional trip planner--I just think she knows people here) I could already tell that there was something not right about her when she kept telling us that the Aix's Cours Mirabeau was just like the Champs-Elysées in Paris because "it's where everything happens." Right. Just like in Paris... Then her restaurant listings were for tourist traps that weren't even for student budgets. Finally, her plans for an extensive hike in the middle of the day to the famous Mont Saint-Victoire has drawn puzzled reactions from everyone I've talked to in the area. First of all everyone has said "do it in the late afternoon or early morning"--whereas she has us planned to do a picnic on the summit. Then there's the wisdom of doing this in the summer months where the visibility is reduced by the heat-induced haze (it's supposed to be a spectacular view where you can see the Mediterranean). I'm skipping out and heading back to Marseille tomorrow.

Today we had a fascinating tour with this aging guide from the tourist office. I really came to understand why this region of France has been synonymous with such backwardsness.

First there's the Revolution, which the tour guide kept referring to in the context of "unfortunately that was destroyed at the time of...". Indeed, the revolution here was much more against the priviledge of the church which payed no taxes rather than against the royalty which payed relatively few taxes but employed a majority of the local population.

And so it's not terribly surprising that the staunchest supporters of the provençal identity (and particularly the language) were also collaborators with the Vichy regime (Brazillac, Maurras). In fact, at the market today I was stunned to see a table with several apologist works for the horrendous Charles Maurras, including one entitled "Maurras in his time." It also doesn't take mental gymnastics to understand how this could become a stronghold for Jean-Marie Le Pen. (although, there are a lot of other demographic factors including the high number of French refugees from Algeria...)

Alas, I'm in a horrible internet café, whose modernity rivals that of the ones I visited in Romania so I need to go. Can't wait to show you all the pictures. I also owe you pictures of the Fête de la musique (which I tried to upload before my vacation but was prevented from doing so for reasons beyond my control). I've got a full plate. :)

vendredi, juin 24, 2005

No straights allowed

Everyone has seen the New York Times article this week about how hard it's become in New York to tell straight men apart from gay men now that it's become socially acceptable, and even desirable, for all men to look good. Indeed, New York is quite the place for a mixing of the genders. You have lesbian saleswomen telling straight ladies how to get clitoral and g-spot stimulation from all sorts of sex toys (when a butch saleswoman openly talked about what she and her partner preferred in terms of stimulation to a hetero female friend of mine in the market for a vibrator, I about cried at the beauty of the cross-pollenation of sexual experience). Then there's the time I went barhopping for a straight friend of mine's birthday and our mixed group ended up in a gay bar because the music was good for dancing.

It's reassuring to me because growing up my neighborhood was always very gay friendly. My parents moved to Silverlake when it was THE gay neighborhood in LA. I guess my parents are pioneers like that. We always had gay neighbors, some of whom have become longtime family friends, and I don't even think I had to ask my parents about why Angela and Cristina slept in the same bed. I just knew. Hell, when my parents and I went to a really rare easter service at the church they were married in, it didn't even seem that strange that the church had lots of gay couples and a huge AIDS memorial inside.I think the only time I ever remember getting anxious around gays was when my parents and I went to a street fair in Hollywood which happened to be a sort of really low-key gay pride event (not the hyped-up West Hollywood parade). But I was at that awkward time in my own sexual development where I wasn't sure of why I liked boys but felt like I was still supposed to like girls (this of course isn't my parents' doing, because, after all, it is a hetero-normative society). I remember saying something really homophobic at junior high once, just to try to deflect attention from my own awkwardness--all of this goes to show how much homophobia is really a manifestation of one's own insecurity. I'm lucky to have parents so secure in themselves.

When I go back to LA I realize what a paradise my hipster, bohemian neighborhood really is. Though gentrification is slowly creeping in, rent control has helped keep the minority population from being entirely forced out. I remember growing up how my favorite treat was going to the panaderia to buy big round cookies with sprinkles, and while the bakery is gone, there's still the lady that walks up and down the street selling "TAA-MAAAAAAAAAAA-LES". But it's also the incredible integration of queerness into the hip scene that is Sunset Junction (the part of Sunset Boulevard I live off of). The Sunset Junction Street Fair is a two-day celebration along six blocks of this major thoroughfare uniting hipster music lovers, immigrant families, gay men in leather, drag queens, the bland-by-comparison left-wing upper-middle-class families who live in the surrounding hills, etc. etc. etc. This is blue-state America at its best and I've gone since I was in a stroller. Then there's my all-time favorite bar a five minute walk from home that's the best hetero-friendly gay bar you could ask for: a rejection of the vapid West Hollywood bars with their Chelsea-boy clones (the ones who travel to New York and have only seen 8th Avenue...) with strong, cheap drinks, a jukebox with everything from Aretha Franklin to Franz Ferdinand, and effigies of George Bush and Dick Cheney strung from the ceiling with a noose around their necks!

So I guess this background of queer acceptance (and racial and class diversity), and I haven't even mentioned high school, I came from and was so happy to see in New York, where the gay ghetto is becoming so undesirable that the even the five minutes late NY Times picked up that "Chelsea-boy" isn't a particularly fattering description. Only the most out of it people are going to ask me if I've met any pretty girls. Gay bars are obviously indispensable (because it makes it a lot easier to flirt with men when you know they're at least interested in men) but it's also incredibly liberating to know that you can go on a date with another guy to a "straight bar" and nobody's going to throw stones at you--or care at all. Queers don't have to huddle in the West Village as they once did to hide from the homophobic Staten Island teenagers who'd drive across two bridges just to beat up on fags.

Not to paint a hugely rosey picture of gay life in New York. I mean, there is still homophobia anywhere. And the hostility towards gay rights from disadvantaged minority communities who wrongly see homosexuality as a white upper-middle class phenomeon (a number of studies have pointed out that gay marriage would be of greatest benefit to female same-sex couples of color who raise children...) is still considerable. (This again needs to be tempered with the anecdote from my days working at PS 151 of the Puerto Rican third grader who intervened when a classmate was shocked by a rumor that a male movie heartthrob liked "boys" by saying "my aunt is a lesbian and it's normal. She is really nice." She said this while looking at me, as a way of communicating that she knew I was gay and supported that.) And then there was the time two drunken men punched me on the street (in Chelsea, coincidentally) at 4 AM using anti-gay epithets. There's also the time that I was told "not to be so queeny" when complaining to a store manager: in one of those argument scenes, an astonished crowd gathered as I told the manager to go fuck himself and threw my shopping basket full of merchandise at him before walking out. And then there's Wall Street, Manhattan's last great bastion of homophobia. But the bright news there is that most of those people live in the suburbs (all the more reason for them to pay a commuter tax!) and that a lot of the big financial firms are themselves leaving New York (yes, I know the Empire State Development Corporation is having a fit about this).

But all in all, gay bars are now in virtually every neighborhood from Park Slope to the Upper West Side and things have gotten so good that even straight men no longer feel that their masculinity is threatened if they get mistaken for a gay man.

So all of this lenghty background (symptomatic of how much I miss the Big Apple) goes to explain why I've gotten in two arguments in two days with gay men complaining about straight people in "their" places. Tonight one person was bitching about "too many straight people" at the Follivores. This person went so far as to complain that whenever you get jostled on the crowded dance floor, it's always a straight person.

That comment was as revealing (and idiotic) as somebody saying that "black people commit all the crime". The person tried to explain to me that the Follivores were ruined by so many straight girls. I tried to explain to him that his attitude was reflective of the entire "gay ghetto" attitude that is pervasive here and that it was actually this kind of "brassage" is what helps lead to greater social acceptance. I've met interesting men in gay and straight bars where the proportion of heteros was anywhere between 5 percent and 60 percent. But alas, the person in question was insistent that only gay men should be in gay bars. (I guess sex clubs is where I would have to agree with him: nobody wants a whole bunch of straight women and men hanging around a gay bathhouse--and why would they want to be there?)

But it really reflects the general immaturity of Paris' gay community. It's very much a "Marais or nothing" mentality which is about as stunting as you can get. I can't tell you how many people I've heard go on and on about how stupid straight men are, or about how they practically run the other way when they see one. It's really pathetic. And then I could also cite how the gay men on the French Queer Eye try to make every man, regardless of his own individual tastes or sensibilities, into a gay ghetto queen. The conformism and small-mindedness of the gay community is a huge turn-off.

At the same time I do understand that gay acceptance in Paris is still hit or miss (and let's not forget the rest of France...) and that this country's Latin culture is still behind Northern Europe (or Manhattan) when it comes to the way that gender is thought of.

This weekend is gay pride in Paris. Which I'll be missing since Columbia's sending me to Aix-en-Provence (what were they thinking?!). It's actually the gay pride issue of the Village Voice that made me think about this: in New York the parade is becoming a little passé, difficult to identify with for more and more gay men who have a hard time understanding the importance of such a display.

Paris is still very much in its "we're here, we're Queer" stage.

jeudi, juin 16, 2005

Oh so busy...

So I haven't put anything up for a while because I've been oh so busy. I had all sorts of things to say about the new government, about Sarkozy's return to the ministry of the interior, about the EU's general disarray but had so little time to put them down in HTML that by the time I actually could get around to doing it, my observations had already been picked up by others on the op-ed pages. Sigh.

My thesis is coming along. I presented my project on Monday. I'll have to post some relevant snippet sometime so you can all see what it's about. I mean, I've told you it's about the evening news as a cultural icon. But it's not as stupid as it sounds. One of these days...

Coming up: next week we have the "Fête de la musique", ringing in the first day of summer. Then there's my trip to Aix-en-Provence. In between all of this I need to write another chapter. (I've gotten one down, so I guess I'm 20 percent done...)

Below are some funny little anecdotes...


Earlier this week M6 had their "France le grand test" (click on the link to take it), a show where they quiz people on their "culture générale". In the studio they had a celebrity panel (from a famous singer to a former news anchor to Casimir), as well as different teams: mayors, police trainees, chefs, people with the last name "Martin", etc. etc. Well what was even more surprising than the police trainees all getting through the literature section with almost no errors was how well I actually did. I got something like 70 out of 80 questions right. I flunked the question about the minimal fine for a traffic violation (somehow, so too did the police trainees...) but got all the current events, history, and literature ones correct. I actually did about on par with Bruno Masure, the former TV news presenter. It's just another sign of how the stork mistakenly dropped me in Los Angeles. On a cultural note, I've never seen so many "general culture" tests in my life. A friend of mine actually dumped his boyfriend after he failed one such test miserably (okay, it wasn't JUST because of that, but his lack of general culture was indicative of what was wrong in the relationship). I guess my success in this department is just one more thing to put in the personal ad. Posted by Hello


Enter the Espadrille. They're the hot new look in Paris this summer (for men and women). And the best part is that you can buy them at the junk store for 4 euros. A friend of mine told me that I looked like his grandmother wearing them. I told him that he needed to get out of the 17th [arrondissement] and then maybe he'd see them more. I was even more mean when I told the friend in question who recently came to Paris from Lyon and still has not visibly mastered the metro, that he was too provincial. Ouch. I've taken now to telling people from other major cities that they're from sticksville and stomp away in my stylish espadrilles.  Posted by Hello


For some inexplicable reason my TV now gets all the cable channels. That includes "M�lody" which has all the old music shows from the 1960s and 1970s. Pictured is the karaoke that they broadcast on Saturday nights (I took this during the English-language ending of the Julien Clerc hit "Laissez entrer le soleil"). When it's not karaoke time, the channel is a trove of some of the most hysterical musical variety shows from the 1960s and 1970s along with French music videos from the past. Like the Joe Dassin "America" special (I've decided that when stunned people ask me why I speak French, I'll just tell them I was Dassin in a past life--he was an American who loved France, spoke impeccable French, and wrote really, really bad songs). The America special was horrendous in that kitchy 1970s Lawrence Welk meets the Sonny and Cher variety hour way (minus the bubbles). But it was their take on the American revolution that was quite a historical stretch: they had dancers dressed up as British troops, American troops (let by Joe Dassin as General Washington), French troops and Indians. The last tree all ganged up on the Brits who had to leave, their tail between their legs. Then Joe Dassin (Gen. Washingotn) thanked General Lafayette saying that "if he didn't exist..." (a cheesy segue into his love song "Si tu n'existais pas"). There was also the terrible sketch about Joe Dassin buying Manhattan from the Indians (who speak French like Africans on a Banania ad...) where they weave in eye-winking references to the famous song "Le Port d'Amsterdam" and, then government minister, Simone Veil. I'm about to drop everything on my current thesis and start a new project on this channel. I'm secretly hoping that my cable will get cut or something so I'll actually get work done. Posted by Hello


Pointy hats are also quite the rage this season. Posted by Hello

dimanche, juin 05, 2005

Overheard



At a café at on the Butte aux cailles, an English couple speaks in French to some acquaintances that pass by.

After their friends leave, the couple starts back in English:

"I think they're a multi-racial couple. She's French but he speaks with an English accent."

Just when you thought the gulf between the French and English couldn't get any bigger...


And then there's my second gem of the day which wasn't exactly overheard, but whatever, it was one of those moments where a crazy person brought back all the fun times in New York with a menopausal woman in a small elevator demanding I feel her forehead or the mentally handicapped man who spoke loudly to me about his rectal exam on the 6 train.

Standing on the rue de Chevreuse at 12:30 PM, I'm watching the pigeons pick at dirt on the pavement and this old lady comes up to me and mumbles something.

I ask her to speak a little more loudly. Little old ladies walking around Montparnasse on Sundays are usually asking for things like the time or directions.

"Do the pigeons talk to you?" she asks earnestly.

"Uh... no," I reply. "Well, not recently," I added, not wanting to make her feel too crazy.

Then she turns to walk away. "They're not very talkative today."

And as she makes her way around the crosswalk, passing by a flock of pigeons, she meows loudly.

Cue the circus music.

samedi, juin 04, 2005

Fighting the good fight?

Blame the f***ing formatting problems on Blogger. The lack of proofreading is my fault.


US reactions to the EU referendum are more or less disappointing. You see middle-of-the-road and conservative pundits basically parroting British newspapers (because, as most Americans are incapable of reading any European newspapers, they have to rely on the viewpoint of one of the EU’s most europhobic countries…) and progressives chanting that the people’s revolution has come to fruition. A “great” article in the Nation by John Nichols proclaims that French voters ended corporate domination. Another “splendid” example was Diana Johnstone of Counterpunch which couldn’t have displayed a greater lack of understanding of French domestic politics (she thought Laurent Fabius, a horrendously unpopular politician both within and outside of his own party, would wrest the Socialist party away from François Hollande.)

Their enthusiasm could barely be contained that French voters said no to “globalization”.

My fellow US progressives, let me give you an analogy that maybe you’ll be able to understand. The allegedly progressive “no” movement (I’ll get back to that in a minute) is about as responsible as voting for Nader in 2004. Because, regardless of whether people like it or not, the EU has generally been a force for progressive ideas (especially from an American point of view). The Constitution, which wasn’t perfect, but which ensured strong protections to maintain a high standard of living and human rights, was the next logical step. So it took a free trade zone and ensured necessary social protections.

American progressives, I understand, are very leery when it comes to free trade. And clearly Nafta and the propsed Cafta are chief examples of where this has gone wrong because clearly maquiladoras only polluted Mexico and didn’t make anyone rich except for factory owners. On the other hand, we can point to the EU’s economic integration—which is far more comprehensive—and see the miracles it has done for once poor countries like Spain and Ireland. And then there’s the independent free-trade zone for South America, Mercosur, being proposed by center-left governments who want to help insulate themselves from American hegemony. A competitive market isn’t necessarily either anathema to social progress, either: Nordic countries are high-tax, welfare states with stringent environmental standards that are among the most business-friendly.

Basically, it depends on how we want to define progressive. Do we want to say that getting rid of a free-market economy is the definition of progress? How progressive was the command economy of the former communist block where people had to run all over town for toilet paper? Or do we want to define our form of progress as an economy that ensures a high standard of living, environmental protections, social coverage (health care, etc.), and all the other good stuff.

The Anglo-Saxon “progressive” does not automatically equal “extreme left.” I’m not advocating an irrational communist-phobia à la McCarthy, but on the other hand you can find plenty of people in Europe that Americans might qualify as progressives who recoil at the idea of communism. I consider myself a “progressive” in the American sense in that I believe that government has a role in regulating business, in promoting fairer taxes, providing public services, in ending discrimination, in promoting a better world. In France I’d be a Socialist party voter (that’s the “center left” not to be confused with the left-centerism of Tony Blair’s Labour party).

What I’m trying to explain here is that American progressives need to be a lot less quick to jump on European far-left bandwagons before they understand the terrain. While, yes, your chances of voting no were higher, the poorer you were, some American columnists wrote as if this were some victory in a class war (the little people rising up!). If you want to still subscribe to Marxist reductivism, well, just skip ahead a few paragraphs.

But the real reasons for so many people voting no were a general sense of economic insecurity and a total lack of understanding of European construction. I can’t blame voters for not having a clue about how Europe works because that’s what the political parties should have been doing for twenty years now. And I sympathize with people who have seen their buying power shrink and worry about a deterioration of their quality of life. Both the willingness to blame bad news on Brussels and the persistent 10 percent unemployment rate of the past twenty years are inexcusable failures of the political establishment—both right and left.

Unfortunately, the far left (including, sadly, the altermondialiste group Attac, which has been a force for good, but has now decided to get itself involved in divisive politics—apparently in an effort to enter the political realm itself) took advantage of this ignorance and told people they’d be able to save Europe if they voted no. In a cheap political move, they actually played on people’s ignorance by feeding them fear. People were convinced that if they voted yes, Europe would be taken over by the Thatcherites, that abortion would be illegal, that all of the public services would have to be privatized, that France would be able to renegotiate the treaty.

It’s actually the now dead treaty that would have saved us from that.

The columnists also, perhaps unwittingly, gave their okay to some of the most blatant xenophobia we’ve seen since… Jean-Marie Le Pen. From Portugal to Poland, everyone said workers were going to flood France and take away jobs from those who actually belong here. Aside from the fact France, has critical shortages of labor in nursing and in the hospitality sector (the fact that none of the ten percent of France’s unemployed are able to fill the gap shows a major problem with way this country retrains workers…), the European constitution expressly states that any worker in a job has to work for at least the minimum wage in their new country. Of course the media has found examples of foreign workers at lower wage standards than are illegal… working in the city hall of one mayor that was a “no” supporter. The mythical polish plumber has become the black welfare queen of 21st Century Europe : a scapegoat, an easily consumable icon of the “other” upon which we can all fix our fears and hate. For the extreme-left, a movement that says it wants to bring all peoples together, this is nothing short of shameful. This is the campaign US progressive writers are backing.

And then the ignorance of some writers has gone so far as to give a stamp of approval to the unconscionable. Diana Johnstone tells her readers that as for right-wing national sovereignty arguments, “there is nothing really so dreadful about that.” Except for the fact that national sovereignty arguments are perceived by most people (on the right and the left) as the slippery slope to the far right. National sovereignty is a code-word for nationalism. Like compassionate conservatism, there’s nothing wrong with it in principle, until you see what that actually means. Marine Le Pen, one of those not-so-dreadful sovereignty people couldn’t help but blather on about the “great French people” (which everyone understands to exclude racial minorities). Philippe de Villiers, another one of those not-so-dreadful sovereignty people, cited in his victory speech the writer Charles Maurras. If the name doesn’t ring a bell (it sends shivers up French backs), he was a fascist-sympathiser and Nazi collaborator. Even the extreme left no folks wouldn’t touch “national sovereignty” with a ten foot pole.

American progressives, so taken with France, took everything that the extreme left and Le Monde Diplomatique here said at face value, without bothering to notice that, for example, Italian communists were saying the exact opposite. I think there’s a value in far left figures like Arlette Laguiller and Le Monde Diplo, but I’m not a dogmatic follower of either.

The left in the US is horribly divided. But I think if it were able to think critically about its own values, and evaluate their own dogma in the big picture, we might not see the type of infighting that plagues progressive institutions like Pacifica radio.

In any case, we’ve now seen that the EU’s seams are all coming undone thanks to the French no. Take a look at the headlines from European papers for the past two days ranging from the end of the ratification process to the end of the Eurozone.

So now the poorer countries of Eastern Europe are joining with Britain to try to scrap plans to limit the work week to 48 hours (where people can opt out of the clause, but who really is in a position to freely “opt out” when their job is at stake. It’s also a plan that makes poor economic sense since the country with the longest average workday, England, is the least productive in Europe, and the country with the shortest, France, is the most productive. But I digress.). Now that France has lost its stature, it’s in for a tough battle. The far-left “nonistes” insisted the world would revolve around France. And, well, it doesn’t.

Now there’s no common vision, and everyone’s getting very antsy about whether or not the EU, with all of its flaws, is going to survive. The fact is European construction is a necessary step for a continent which, let’s not forget, just fifty years ago was the scene of Nazi death camps and lost generations. European integration is also the hope that even more recent tragedies like the Balkans don’t unfold again. France and Germany, which between 1870 and 1940 managed to get into three wars, now share things as mundane as television channels and as lofty as a common vision for Europe and the world.

And now the backbone of the French left, the Socialist party, is in another round of hand-wringing and backstabbing. There’s at least one thing the Democrats and the French socialists have in common. But the far-left is never going to get any power unless it’s in an alliance with the Socialists, who are now in disarray over the referendum. Hint: Presidential elections are in less than two years.

We’re just beginning to see the very un-progressive fallout of the vote less than a week ago.